
Text – Shiladitya Chaudhury.
The combined length of the world’s coastline is typically estimated to be 3,56,000 kms as per the CIA World Factbook. Every year, a little part of it - the quiet coastline of Odisha in India to be precise - becomes the arena of an extraordinary natural event. What unfolds here is the spectacular phenomenon of mass nesting of Olive Ridley turtles known as arribada (Spanish for “arrival”). This occurrence, where lakhs of female turtles come ashore simultaneously to lay eggs, is a remarkable sight to behold.
Odisha hosts India’s only and some of the world’s largest nesting grounds at Gahirmatha beach and Rushikulya river mouth as well as the river mouth of Devi. In recent years, numbers have surged impressively with nearly seven lakh turtles recorded in a single season at Rushikulya alone, reaffirming the global ecological importance of this coastline.
Witnessing the Phenomenon in March 2026
By March’26, the nesting season was at its peak as it usually is each year. Towards the end of the month, it starts tapering off. Thanks to the good offices of my friend, Dr. Dhriti Banerjee, Director – ZSI, I set off by road from Kolkata in early March’26 to watch the mass nesting phenomenon at Rushikulya. Olive Ridleys typically nest between February and March after moderate to long migrations across the ocean. This reptilian species mates in water while females come ashore to lay their eggs along the beach.
Arriving at the Rushikulya nesting beach before dawn was an unforgettable experience, one that will remain ingrained in my memory forever. My accompanying friend, Dr. Anil Mahapatra, a senior scientist with ZSI explained that of the three mass nesting sites along Odisha’s coastline, Rushikulya was the last to be discovered in 1994.
The road from Berhampur to Rushikulya had thinned into silence long before I reached the coast. By the time I stepped onto the sand, the world had reduced itself to just three elements – wind, darkness, and the low, insistent murmur of the Bay of Bengal. There were no crowds, no spectacle yet. Just an emptiness that demanded that I wait. Wildlife teaches your patience. So, I waited.
And then, almost imperceptibly, the horizon shifted.
Seemed Almost like an Illusion, and Then…
At first, it almost seemed like an illusion – dark shapes were shifting and breaking the rhythm of the waves. Then more, and more of them. Within minutes, the shoreline began to fill as if the sea itself was exhaling life onto land. Olive Ridley turtles, by the hundreds, then thousands, were hauling themselves ashore in an ancient ritual, the mass nesting that transforms this quiet stretch of Odisha’s coastline into one of the most significant wildlife gatherings on Earth.
I have seen massive migrations of wild animals before like the thunder of wildebeest across the Mara and the slow authority of elephants moving through Amboseli, but this was different. This was quieter, more intimate, and yet overwhelming in scale. There was no drama in the conventional sense. No chase, no predator, no obvious tension. And yet, everything about it felt urgent.
Each turtle moved with a purpose that needed no instruction. In a matter of minutes, they were moving past me, around me, sometimes brushing against my boots, their shells catching faint glints of moonlight. The beach that was earlier smooth and untouched became a living canvas of tracks and motion. I remember lifting my camera, framing a shot, and then lowering it again. There are moments when photography feels secondary and witnessing becomes more important than capturing.
But my instinct took over. I began to shoot. Low angles. Long exposures. Silhouettes against the surf. The rhythmic motion of flippers carving into sand. In the dim light, the Olive Ridley turtles’ eyes glistened, not with emotion as we understand it but with something older, something that was programmed into their very being.
Soon after, the digging began.
A female would select her spot, though to my eyes it seemed arbitrary and begin to excavate with her hind flippers. The movement was methodical, almost meditative. Sand flew in soft arcs behind her as a flask-shaped chamber took form. Around her, dozens of others were doing the same. Some collided against each other, some dug into existing nests, erasing what had been laid just hours before. It was chaotic, inefficient, and yet entirely natural. This was evolution at work; not perfection, but persistence, following a natural rhythm.
As my eyes adjusted to the landscape, I watched more shapes emerge from the water. As more and more of them climbed onto the shore, the sand around me appeared alive. Thousands of Olive Ridley turtles were scattered across the beach. In this fascinating mise en scene, some were digging nests with rhythmic flipper movements, others were scraping sand and covering their eggs, while many were slowly making their way back to the sea.
I feel it is both intimate and humbling to watching the Olive Ridley turtle nest. The female climbs out of the water with determination, clambers over the sand, selects a spot, and digs a flask-shaped pit. Then, in a focused, trance-like state, she settles down to lay around 100-115 eggs.
Taking Care to Save her Eggs
Once done, mama turtle carefully covers the nest, camouflaging it to protect against predators, and then returns to the ocean. While the entire process may take 30–45 minutes, it is mesmerizing to watch knowing it carries immense ecological significance because each clutch contributing to the survival of an endangered species, and only a small percentage of eggs will eventually hatch.
The reasons are quite a few; other turtles coming behind may trample over the freshly-laid eggs or they may turn into food for prowling predators, notably the Brahminy kite, Golden jackal and wild boar. These eggs surprisingly do not need parenting as the Olive Ridley turtles go back to the sea immediately after laying the eggs and within a span of 45 days the eggs are hatched naturally with the heat of sunlight.
I could only imagine what a sight it would be to behold the baby turtles hatching out of eggs and crawling into the sea in numbers.
Local Community Inclusiveness
What truly uplifts the Olive Ridley turtle mass nesting saga in Odisha is not just the scale of nature, but the quiet, committed role of local communities who live along these shores. Other than the state wildlife officials, here, the local community is deeply involved in protecting and enhancing the mass nesting phenomenon. Speaking to state wildlife official and scientists working at the Rushikulya site, I gathered that along the estuaries and beaches near nesting sites such as Rushikulya river mouth and Gahirmatha beach, inmates of fishing villages have become active partners in conservation rather than passive observers. During the critical nesting months, motorized fishing boats are completely withdrawn from the sea. Only traditional, non-mechanized rowing boats are permitted in certain areas, drastically reducing accidental turtle deaths caused by propellers and fishing nets.
This is no small sacrifice. For many fisher families, this period coincides with productive fishing months. Yet, there is a remarkable sense of shared responsibility. As locals, they are understanding and proud that these beaches are the few chosen, globally significant nesting grounds for the Olive Ridley turtles. In fact, fishermen and their families often assist forest officials and conservation workers by reporting turtle movements, safeguarding nesting zones, and discouraging any harmful activity. Women and children in these communities transform into informal custodians of the beach, ensuring that nests remain undisturbed, discouraging tourists from venturing too near or disturbing the seasonal visitors.
The most striking testament to this community stewardship is the near absence of poaching or egg collection – something that was once a concern in many coastal regions across the world. Here, the turtles are not seen as a resource to exploit, but truly as seasonal visitors who deserve privacy, care, and protection. This transformation did not happen overnight. It is the result of sustained awareness campaigns, trust-building between authorities and locals, and a growing pride among residents in being part of one of the world’s greatest wildlife events. In many ways, the success of Olive Ridley conservation in Odisha is a reminder that when local communities are informed, respected, and involved, conservation ceases to be enforcement; it becomes a shared value.
Science and Technology for Better Conservation
As Dr. Anil Mohapatra tells me, behind the awe-inspiring spectacle of mass nesting lies the quieter, meticulous, year-on-year effort by researchers and forest officials to understand the lives of these ocean travellers. During the nesting season along beaches such as Rushikulya river mouth and Gahirmatha beach, selected Olive Ridley turtles are gently tagged on their flippers. The small, non-invasive tags carry unique identification numbers, allowing scientists to track individual turtles over time. When a tagged turtle is sighted again sometimes years later, and occasionally thousands of kilometres away it provides invaluable insights into migration routes, nesting frequency, and survival rates.
In some cases, more advanced satellite transmitters are also used, revealing astonishing journeys across the Indian Ocean. These studies have shown that Olive Ridleys visiting Odisha’s coast may travel vast distances, connecting marine ecosystems across countries and even continents. The research feeds directly into conservation planning. By understanding where turtles travel and the threats they face, such as fishing zones or shipping routes; authorities can design better protection measures, both within and beyond India’s waters.
Thoughts As I Came Away
For me, to witness the Olive Ridley mass nesting at Rushikulya in Odisha was to seize a quick opportunity and stand awhile at the intersection of time, nature, and survival. It was a welcome break from my hectic urban schedule.
Olive Ridley turtles that are officially classified as Vulnerable by the IUCN Red List have faced a 30 -50% population decline globally. They are also under Schedule I of the Wildlife Protection Act, 1972. This is an ancient animal, part of a lineage that has inhabited the planet’s oceans for over 100 million years. To the nesting sites it returns faithfully every year, defying odds and human pressures, pulled by some remarkable ecological instinct.
Watching the arribada was akin to watching a beautifully choreographed scene, where each artist came on stage, played its part, and retreated gracefully. No chaos, no race to be the first – only a quiet, instinctive pattern of movement. Despite their massive numbers, the Olive Ridley turtles moved with a calm determination guided by some ancient biological rhythm in this chapter of their lives played over millions of years.
There is something profoundly respectful about watching life unfold at such a scale that is so utterly quiet, persistent, and ancient. In a sense, it reminds us that we, the humans, are mere visitors to these shores but the turtles are returning home to nest just as they have for millions of years.
Camera Used:
Sony A7 Mark 3 with 200-600 lens
Sony RX10 Mark 4
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